By Dinah Eng
To many consumers, Compact Fluorescent Lamps (CFLs) are most commonly thought of as those squiggly light bulbs that offer energy-efficient lighting and are advertised to last at least six times longer than incandescent bulbs.
Advocates say the biggest advantage of using CFLs is the energy savings and long life of the bulbs. When it comes to cutting electric bills, a CFL uses 75 percent less energy than an incandescent bulb. At the same time, while prices for incandescent bulbs can run as low as 25 cents each, CFLs may range from $2 to $5 each.
“For long-term savings, one CFL bulb is the equivalent of replacing 6 to 10 incandescent bulbs,” says Gabrielle Boose, CFL product manager for General Electric.
But CFLs also come with a cautionary warning -- an essential ingredient in the CFL’s glass tubing is mercury, considered a hazardous waste in large amounts. Exposure to mercury, which is a toxic metal, can affect the spinal cord, brain, liver, and kidneys, causing memory loss, trembling hands and difficulty moving. While CFLs are not legally designated hazardous waste, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency urges consumers to dispose of the bulbs properly when they burn out. Retailers like Home Depot now offer recycling programs.
“While Home Depot is the first to offer a national recycling program, there are many retailers, like Wal-Mart and Ace Hardware, who offer take-back programs on a local level as well,” Boose says. “Consumers should understand, though, that the amount of mercury used in CFLs is very small. Our average dose in a bulb is 3.5 ml, which fits on the head of a pin. In comparison, household thermometers may have 1,000 ml of mercury in them.”
If recycling isn’t offered in your area, the EPA recommends placing the CFL in a sealed plastic bag and disposing of it as you would batteries, motor oil and oil-based paint at a local Household Hazardous Waste Collection Site. Caution should also be used if a CFL breaks in your home. Be sure to open windows so that any vapor that escapes can disperse, sweep up the fragments with a broom, and wipe the area with a disposable paper towel. Do not touch anything with your hands, and do not use a vacuum. Place all fragments in a sealed plastic bag and dispose as outlined above.
There are many different types of CFLs now available, designed to look more like traditional bulbs, hiding that once bulky spiral element. Some CFLs even work with dimmable switches as well. Truly green-minded consumers are waiting for the development of LED (Light-Emitting Diodes) technology, which was invented by GE scientists in the 1960s. LEDs can offer up to 90 percent energy cost savings, minimal maintenance, and are not made with mercury.
Common applications today include car taillights, cell phone displays, camera flashes and architectural accent lighting. “LED is the next future wave of lighting,” Boose says. “In terms of consumer use, LEDs are not ready to take the place of incandescent bulbs like CFLs are. They’re where CFLs were 10 to 15 years ago.”
To find information on CFL recycling and household hazardous waste programs in your area, check Earth911.org, which will identify the nearest recycling facility. You also can call (800) 253-2687 for an automated hotline, or the local government entity responsible for household hazardous waste collection.
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Curb appeal tips that pay off
By Dian Hymer
Imagine going on a job interview looking shabby, or trying to sell your car for a good price when it's filthy and loaded with stuff. In a competitive market, you wouldn't do well.
The same can be said about selling your home. If it looks neglected and in need of work, some buyers won't even take a look. This is particularly the case in today's market where, in many parts of the country, there are far more homeowners anxious to sell than there are buyers interested in buying.
In a business where emotions and pride of ownership play a big role, first impressions can have a lasting effect. Most buyers lack the ability to imagine what a house might look like with a different exterior paint color or a landscaped yard. When there is a lot of inventory on the market, you may have only one chance to catch a buyer's attention. Make sure it's not lost before he or she walks through the front door.
One of the first items on a home seller's agenda should be a critical evaluation of how the home and yard look from the street. It's a good idea to ask your real estate agent to help with this. Sellers often have strong emotional attachments to their homes and have difficulty seeing it objectively.
Your goal is to identify cost-effective changes you can make to your house and yard that will make it more appealing to buyers. This could be as simple as cleaning up the yard, adding colorful plants, mulching, power washing the entry walk, and washing dirt off the exterior of the house.
However, if the paint is peeling, shutters are deteriorating, the fence is leaning and the yard is a mess, you have a bigger project on your hands. You can sell a house in this condition. But, it will appeal to a limited number of buyers who are willing to tackle a fixer-upper in order to get a bargain price.
HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Your home will appeal to a larger audience and will sell more quickly and for a better price if you put the time and money into improving its curb appeal. Curb appeal refers to how your house appears from the street. Even if you're selling a fixer-upper, it's a good idea to do some cleanup so that buyers can perceive the potential.
You don't need to spend a fortune to get the work done. Your goal is to have good, not superb, work done at a reasonable price. It's wise to get bids from several contractors. For instance, exterior paint estimates can vary widely. Your real estate agent or neighbors ought to be able to provide references.
By the way, if you are going to paint the exterior of your house before selling, this could be a prime opportunity to improve curb appeal. Consult with a color expert to pick colors that are currently in fashion for the house, trim and front door.
One seller had the exterior of his house repainted before consulting with his agent or a color expert. It was painted the same drab color it had been for decades. Most of the buyers who seriously considered the house mentioned that they thought the house needed an exterior paint job because the color was so unappealing.
It usually doesn't make financial sense to completely re-landscape a front yard that is shot. Salvage what you can, bring in new plants to replace dead ones and roll out new sod, if necessary.
THE CLOSING: Mulch does wonders to freshen up a garden, particularly one that is sparsely planted.
Imagine going on a job interview looking shabby, or trying to sell your car for a good price when it's filthy and loaded with stuff. In a competitive market, you wouldn't do well.
The same can be said about selling your home. If it looks neglected and in need of work, some buyers won't even take a look. This is particularly the case in today's market where, in many parts of the country, there are far more homeowners anxious to sell than there are buyers interested in buying.
In a business where emotions and pride of ownership play a big role, first impressions can have a lasting effect. Most buyers lack the ability to imagine what a house might look like with a different exterior paint color or a landscaped yard. When there is a lot of inventory on the market, you may have only one chance to catch a buyer's attention. Make sure it's not lost before he or she walks through the front door.
One of the first items on a home seller's agenda should be a critical evaluation of how the home and yard look from the street. It's a good idea to ask your real estate agent to help with this. Sellers often have strong emotional attachments to their homes and have difficulty seeing it objectively.
Your goal is to identify cost-effective changes you can make to your house and yard that will make it more appealing to buyers. This could be as simple as cleaning up the yard, adding colorful plants, mulching, power washing the entry walk, and washing dirt off the exterior of the house.
However, if the paint is peeling, shutters are deteriorating, the fence is leaning and the yard is a mess, you have a bigger project on your hands. You can sell a house in this condition. But, it will appeal to a limited number of buyers who are willing to tackle a fixer-upper in order to get a bargain price.
HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Your home will appeal to a larger audience and will sell more quickly and for a better price if you put the time and money into improving its curb appeal. Curb appeal refers to how your house appears from the street. Even if you're selling a fixer-upper, it's a good idea to do some cleanup so that buyers can perceive the potential.
You don't need to spend a fortune to get the work done. Your goal is to have good, not superb, work done at a reasonable price. It's wise to get bids from several contractors. For instance, exterior paint estimates can vary widely. Your real estate agent or neighbors ought to be able to provide references.
By the way, if you are going to paint the exterior of your house before selling, this could be a prime opportunity to improve curb appeal. Consult with a color expert to pick colors that are currently in fashion for the house, trim and front door.
One seller had the exterior of his house repainted before consulting with his agent or a color expert. It was painted the same drab color it had been for decades. Most of the buyers who seriously considered the house mentioned that they thought the house needed an exterior paint job because the color was so unappealing.
It usually doesn't make financial sense to completely re-landscape a front yard that is shot. Salvage what you can, bring in new plants to replace dead ones and roll out new sod, if necessary.
THE CLOSING: Mulch does wonders to freshen up a garden, particularly one that is sparsely planted.
Want a fancier-looking room? Try wainscoting
By Paul Bianchina
One way to really dress up a room and try your hand at some different decorating techniques is to consider wainscoting. There are a number of ways to combine materials to create some very attractive wainscoting effects, and the cost doesn't need to be prohibitive.
Traditionally, wainscoting is tongue and groove boards or raised or flat paneling sections that are applied to the lower part of a wall. The wainscoting extends from the top of the baseboard up to a height of usually between 3 and 5 feet off the floor, and is topped off with a horizontal molding. In addition to its decorative appeal, wainscoting had the very practical advantage of protecting the lower portion of the wall from wear and tear.
Today, however, wainscoting has taken on a somewhat less specific definition. It can be just about any combination of materials, including paint, wood, wallpaper and even fabric.
A wainscoting application consists of three elements: the lower portion of the wall, the upper portion of the wall, and the dividing line between the two. How you mix and match those three elements is up to your individual taste and budget.
Splitting Up the Wall
One of the first things to decide for any wainscoting project is where the dividing line will be between the two different materials. For a room with an 8-foot-high ceiling, a division of approximately 3 feet on the lower half and 5 feet on the upper half tends to give the best balance. Many Craftsman-style homes used the reverse of that, with about 5 feet of paneling on the lower half, capped with a wider molding that was suitable for shallow storage. For best appearance, the dividing line should not be exactly half way up the wall.
To get a better idea of how different proportions will work, tape some newspaper or other material on the wall at a couple of different heights. This will give you a better representation of how the two halves will balance out, and you can adjust them accordingly.
Installing Traditional Wainscoting
To achieve the look of a board wainscoting, you can install individual narrow, tongue and groove boards; you can install wider boards that are milled on the face to look like two or three narrower boards, which simplifies installation; or you can install 4-foot-wide beaded paneling, which again replicates the look of individual boards but installs faster. With any of these methods, finish off the top of the boards with a horizontal molding such as a wainscot cap or a chair rail.
For a paneled look, there are kits available that include a routed base molding, a routed top molding, routed vertical strips, and the panels themselves. The pieces all interlock with one another, and as long as you take some time with the layout to ensure that the panels are balanced to the width of the wall, you can achieve a beautiful, traditional paneled wainscoting in a relatively short time. If you are an avid woodworker, there are specialized router bits that help you cut the individual pieces yourself and save some money.
With wood, you have the choice of painting or staining the material to get the look you want. For painting, the boards and paneling are available in medium-density fiberboard (MDF), which paints nicely and is less expensive than solid wood. For stained wainscoting, you can select from pine, fir, oak, cherry, maple and other woods.
Wood strips, paneling and moldings can all be found at most home centers and lumberyards, along with all the installation materials you need. Some larger stores also carry the paneling kits, or they can order them for you. You will also find a wide selection of wainscoting paneling kits online.
Other Wainscoting Materials
In addition to traditional wood, there are lots of other material combinations that will work very well together. You can experiment with different combinations of materials to achieve the exact look that works for your décor. In general, heavier materials such as wood and fabric look best on the lower half of the wall. Also, darker paint colors and darker, more heavily patterned wallpapers look best on the bottom.
Your wainscoting choice may be something as simple as two different colors of paint. You can also use a solid paint on one section of the wall, and some type of textured paint effect on the other section.
Another easy wainscoting can be achieved with two different wallpapers. Select a lighter paper with a more open pattern for the upper half of the wall, and a darker paper or one with a vertical stripe or heavy pattern for the bottom. You can also combine the two materials by using paint on one section of the wall and wallpaper on the other.
With any of these combinations, separate the two sections of wall with a painted or stained wood molding. To really accent the installation, finish everything off with a crown molding as well.
One way to really dress up a room and try your hand at some different decorating techniques is to consider wainscoting. There are a number of ways to combine materials to create some very attractive wainscoting effects, and the cost doesn't need to be prohibitive.
Traditionally, wainscoting is tongue and groove boards or raised or flat paneling sections that are applied to the lower part of a wall. The wainscoting extends from the top of the baseboard up to a height of usually between 3 and 5 feet off the floor, and is topped off with a horizontal molding. In addition to its decorative appeal, wainscoting had the very practical advantage of protecting the lower portion of the wall from wear and tear.
Today, however, wainscoting has taken on a somewhat less specific definition. It can be just about any combination of materials, including paint, wood, wallpaper and even fabric.
A wainscoting application consists of three elements: the lower portion of the wall, the upper portion of the wall, and the dividing line between the two. How you mix and match those three elements is up to your individual taste and budget.
Splitting Up the Wall
One of the first things to decide for any wainscoting project is where the dividing line will be between the two different materials. For a room with an 8-foot-high ceiling, a division of approximately 3 feet on the lower half and 5 feet on the upper half tends to give the best balance. Many Craftsman-style homes used the reverse of that, with about 5 feet of paneling on the lower half, capped with a wider molding that was suitable for shallow storage. For best appearance, the dividing line should not be exactly half way up the wall.
To get a better idea of how different proportions will work, tape some newspaper or other material on the wall at a couple of different heights. This will give you a better representation of how the two halves will balance out, and you can adjust them accordingly.
Installing Traditional Wainscoting
To achieve the look of a board wainscoting, you can install individual narrow, tongue and groove boards; you can install wider boards that are milled on the face to look like two or three narrower boards, which simplifies installation; or you can install 4-foot-wide beaded paneling, which again replicates the look of individual boards but installs faster. With any of these methods, finish off the top of the boards with a horizontal molding such as a wainscot cap or a chair rail.
For a paneled look, there are kits available that include a routed base molding, a routed top molding, routed vertical strips, and the panels themselves. The pieces all interlock with one another, and as long as you take some time with the layout to ensure that the panels are balanced to the width of the wall, you can achieve a beautiful, traditional paneled wainscoting in a relatively short time. If you are an avid woodworker, there are specialized router bits that help you cut the individual pieces yourself and save some money.
With wood, you have the choice of painting or staining the material to get the look you want. For painting, the boards and paneling are available in medium-density fiberboard (MDF), which paints nicely and is less expensive than solid wood. For stained wainscoting, you can select from pine, fir, oak, cherry, maple and other woods.
Wood strips, paneling and moldings can all be found at most home centers and lumberyards, along with all the installation materials you need. Some larger stores also carry the paneling kits, or they can order them for you. You will also find a wide selection of wainscoting paneling kits online.
Other Wainscoting Materials
In addition to traditional wood, there are lots of other material combinations that will work very well together. You can experiment with different combinations of materials to achieve the exact look that works for your décor. In general, heavier materials such as wood and fabric look best on the lower half of the wall. Also, darker paint colors and darker, more heavily patterned wallpapers look best on the bottom.
Your wainscoting choice may be something as simple as two different colors of paint. You can also use a solid paint on one section of the wall, and some type of textured paint effect on the other section.
Another easy wainscoting can be achieved with two different wallpapers. Select a lighter paper with a more open pattern for the upper half of the wall, and a darker paper or one with a vertical stripe or heavy pattern for the bottom. You can also combine the two materials by using paint on one section of the wall and wallpaper on the other.
With any of these combinations, separate the two sections of wall with a painted or stained wood molding. To really accent the installation, finish everything off with a crown molding as well.
Tuesday, November 4, 2008
Will shopping multiple lenders hurt credit?
By Dian Hymer
It's not uncommon for home buyers to talk with several mortgage brokers or lenders to compare loan products and interest rates. One buyer who shopped around was scolded by a mortgage broker when he found out she was talking to more than one broker. He told her that she was ruining her credit score by allowing multiple credit inquiries.
Too many credit inquiries can negatively affect your credit score, but you can control the damage. And, credit inquires make up a relatively small part of your credit score.
For example, the FICO credit score from Fair Isaac Corp. that is widely used by mortgage companies for qualifying borrowers uses five types of information to calculate a credit score. Each type counts as a percentage of the total credit score. They are: payment history (35 percent); amounts owed (30 percent); length of credit history (15 percent); new credit (10 percent); and types of credit in use (10 percent). Credit inquiries fall into the "new credit" category, which accounts for less than 10 percent of your credit score.
Only voluntary inquiries are taken into account, such as the inquiries made at your request when you shop loan rates. Loan agents usually need to know your credit score before they can quote you an interest rate.
The FICO credit-scoring model ignores all mortgage inquiries made within the last 30 days, so they will have no impact on your credit score. An older version of the scoring formula uses a 14-day time span. A newer version uses 45 days. The lender decides which version of the scoring model it wants to use.
There's no need to panic if you don't line up your mortgage in 30 days. The scoring formula looks for mortgage inquiries older than 30 days. It counts all the mortgage inquiries within a certain period, which varies depending on the scoring model used, as one inquiry. For some borrowers, one inquiry might not affect their credit score at all. If it did, it should be less than five points off your score.
Let's say you talked to four lenders during a week in September. You authorized each to check your credit. Then you postponed buying until November, when you shopped rates again within 30 days prior to closing the sale. The most recent credit inquiries wouldn't affect your credit score. The four that were made in September would count as one inquiry.
HOUSE HUNTING TIP: There’s a wide range of rates being quoted. This is a time when it could pay off to shop carefully for the best rate and mortgage product to suit your needs.
For example, one mortgage broker quoted 6.75 percent on a conforming loan (to $417,000) for a 5-year, interest-only, adjustable-rate mortgage (ARM) with no points. (One point -- a loan origination fee -- is equal to 1 percent of the mortgage amount). Another broker offered a 5-year ARM that is fixed for the first five years at 5 7/8 percent with no points. And, this rate was available for loan amounts up to $650,000.
Nonconforming jumbo financing for mortgage amounts over $1 million is still high -- in the 8 to 9 percent range. Some buyers are achieving a lower blended rate by combining a conforming jumbo (to $729,750) with a second loan. Borrowers who have good credit and an established banking relationship with a lender might be able to arrange a preferential rate.
Before you authorize a credit check, find out what kinds of mortgage products a lender offers and provide a brief summary of your financial situation. Try to focus your rate shopping within a 30-day time period.
THE CLOSING: Don't authorize a credit check until you've narrowed your search down to likely prospects.
It's not uncommon for home buyers to talk with several mortgage brokers or lenders to compare loan products and interest rates. One buyer who shopped around was scolded by a mortgage broker when he found out she was talking to more than one broker. He told her that she was ruining her credit score by allowing multiple credit inquiries.
Too many credit inquiries can negatively affect your credit score, but you can control the damage. And, credit inquires make up a relatively small part of your credit score.
For example, the FICO credit score from Fair Isaac Corp. that is widely used by mortgage companies for qualifying borrowers uses five types of information to calculate a credit score. Each type counts as a percentage of the total credit score. They are: payment history (35 percent); amounts owed (30 percent); length of credit history (15 percent); new credit (10 percent); and types of credit in use (10 percent). Credit inquiries fall into the "new credit" category, which accounts for less than 10 percent of your credit score.
Only voluntary inquiries are taken into account, such as the inquiries made at your request when you shop loan rates. Loan agents usually need to know your credit score before they can quote you an interest rate.
The FICO credit-scoring model ignores all mortgage inquiries made within the last 30 days, so they will have no impact on your credit score. An older version of the scoring formula uses a 14-day time span. A newer version uses 45 days. The lender decides which version of the scoring model it wants to use.
There's no need to panic if you don't line up your mortgage in 30 days. The scoring formula looks for mortgage inquiries older than 30 days. It counts all the mortgage inquiries within a certain period, which varies depending on the scoring model used, as one inquiry. For some borrowers, one inquiry might not affect their credit score at all. If it did, it should be less than five points off your score.
Let's say you talked to four lenders during a week in September. You authorized each to check your credit. Then you postponed buying until November, when you shopped rates again within 30 days prior to closing the sale. The most recent credit inquiries wouldn't affect your credit score. The four that were made in September would count as one inquiry.
HOUSE HUNTING TIP: There’s a wide range of rates being quoted. This is a time when it could pay off to shop carefully for the best rate and mortgage product to suit your needs.
For example, one mortgage broker quoted 6.75 percent on a conforming loan (to $417,000) for a 5-year, interest-only, adjustable-rate mortgage (ARM) with no points. (One point -- a loan origination fee -- is equal to 1 percent of the mortgage amount). Another broker offered a 5-year ARM that is fixed for the first five years at 5 7/8 percent with no points. And, this rate was available for loan amounts up to $650,000.
Nonconforming jumbo financing for mortgage amounts over $1 million is still high -- in the 8 to 9 percent range. Some buyers are achieving a lower blended rate by combining a conforming jumbo (to $729,750) with a second loan. Borrowers who have good credit and an established banking relationship with a lender might be able to arrange a preferential rate.
Before you authorize a credit check, find out what kinds of mortgage products a lender offers and provide a brief summary of your financial situation. Try to focus your rate shopping within a 30-day time period.
THE CLOSING: Don't authorize a credit check until you've narrowed your search down to likely prospects.
No such thing as a "green" car, but there are "greener" options
By Amy Westervelt
Unless you've been cut off from all forms of media for the last two years, you're aware of the fact that vehicle transportation is a major contributor to climate change. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), transportation accounts for 29 percent of total greenhouse gas emissions in the United States. Transportation also is the fastest growing source of emissions, accounting for 47 percent of the net increase in total U.S. emissions since 1990. And that's just getting from point A to point B -- the figures don't factor in the emissions created by manufacturing automobiles or refining fuel.
On top of the environmental cost, the price of gas is not likely to come down too terribly much, and even oil companies’ scientists attest to the fact that we are running out of oil. All of which points to a crucial need for better public transportation and vehicles that are both fuel-efficient and low-emission.
Thanks to our collective century-plus love affair with the automobile, U.S. public transportation systems still have a way to go before the majority of people can reliably get where they need to go without a car. Thankfully, from large automotive companies to small start-ups, we're starting to see a number of choices for fuel-efficient, low-emission automobiles, so much so that it can sometimes be confusing to pinpoint the benefits of each and the differences between them. Following, a simple breakdown of energy-efficient, low-emission vehicles:
Hybrids
Hybrids run off both an internal combustion engine and an electric engine with rechargeable battery. The battery is recharged when the car brakes. Because hybrids switch over to electric power at lower speeds, they make the most of gasoline, getting roughly 40 miles to the gallon, depending on the model. While hybrids have been the poster child for the "green" movement over the last few years, in reality they are only slightly better than conventional vehicles. Because they have two engines, the manufacturing emissions associated with hybrids are higher than those associated with conventional cars; furthermore, there are numerous conventional diesel vehicles in the European Union that get up to 70 miles per gallon.
Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicles
The next generation of hybrid vehicles, plug-in hybrids (PHEVs) run primarily off the electric engine and use the combustion engine for back-up. Their batteries are larger and more powerful, enabling them to run for longer without recharging. When they do need to be charged, they can be plugged into an electrical outlet. The result is much higher fuel efficiency, and much lower emissions, than a conventional hybrid. However, the electric engine comes with its own suite of environmental issues - first, it plugs into the grid, and "the grid" for most of us, is still powered by coal-fired power plants, which means your car use is still tied to a large amount of pollution. Then there's the manufacture and disposal of batteries. Finally, manufacturers are still working out the kinks of battery technology, which is why we're not likely to see PHEVs on the road until about 2010. By that time, hopefully more of the grid will be powered by sun and wind.
Electric Vehicles
Fully electric vehicles emit nothing when you're driving them, and get a range of about 120 - 200 miles per charge. Their primary environmental impact come from the electricity used to power them - if you're plugged into a coal-fired grid, there are still emissions associated with your drive. However, as more and more states add larger amounts of renewable energy to the grid, the associated emissions will go down. Currently available models are typically fairly high in cost, but more affordable models are coming on line in the next one to two years from Mitsubishi, GM, Ford, Nissan, and California start-up Tesla, which currently sells its high-end roadster, a fully electric high performance sports car. The manufacture and disposal of batteries, however, especially large batteries produced at a scale to supply all the current car drivers, is still problematic for environmentalists.
Biodiesel-fueled Car
Standard diesel engines can be converted to run on biodiesel -- fuel derived from various plants and/or waste oil from restaurants. There are even DIY converter kits that run about $600 (check out greasecar.com). Biodiesel is not a fossil fuel and is more fuel-efficient than conventional diesel, but it still emits greenhouse gases when burned. According to the EPA, biodiesel emits less CO2 and particulate matter than conventional fuels, but more nitrous oxide, which also is a greenhouse gas.
Hydrogen-fueled Cars and Fuel Cells
For a long time, many believed hydrogen fuel cell cars were the wave of the future. Cars that run off hydrogen fuel cells can feasibly run just as well as currently available vehicles, and emit only water, which could be used for other things (and guess what? we're running short on water these days too). However, there are numerous engineering obstacles to overcome with hydrogen - namely infrastructure (building hundreds of stations stocked with high-pressure hydrogen canisters is hard to imagine), cost (as with most new fuels, cost for hydrogen fuel is currently prohibitive), and safety (there are still concerns about how hydrogen fuel cells would react in an accident). However, companies such as BMW are continuing to make strides in these areas, while electric car proponents argue that the emphasis should be on increasing the range of existent battery technology.
Unless you've been cut off from all forms of media for the last two years, you're aware of the fact that vehicle transportation is a major contributor to climate change. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), transportation accounts for 29 percent of total greenhouse gas emissions in the United States. Transportation also is the fastest growing source of emissions, accounting for 47 percent of the net increase in total U.S. emissions since 1990. And that's just getting from point A to point B -- the figures don't factor in the emissions created by manufacturing automobiles or refining fuel.
On top of the environmental cost, the price of gas is not likely to come down too terribly much, and even oil companies’ scientists attest to the fact that we are running out of oil. All of which points to a crucial need for better public transportation and vehicles that are both fuel-efficient and low-emission.
Thanks to our collective century-plus love affair with the automobile, U.S. public transportation systems still have a way to go before the majority of people can reliably get where they need to go without a car. Thankfully, from large automotive companies to small start-ups, we're starting to see a number of choices for fuel-efficient, low-emission automobiles, so much so that it can sometimes be confusing to pinpoint the benefits of each and the differences between them. Following, a simple breakdown of energy-efficient, low-emission vehicles:
Hybrids
Hybrids run off both an internal combustion engine and an electric engine with rechargeable battery. The battery is recharged when the car brakes. Because hybrids switch over to electric power at lower speeds, they make the most of gasoline, getting roughly 40 miles to the gallon, depending on the model. While hybrids have been the poster child for the "green" movement over the last few years, in reality they are only slightly better than conventional vehicles. Because they have two engines, the manufacturing emissions associated with hybrids are higher than those associated with conventional cars; furthermore, there are numerous conventional diesel vehicles in the European Union that get up to 70 miles per gallon.
Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicles
The next generation of hybrid vehicles, plug-in hybrids (PHEVs) run primarily off the electric engine and use the combustion engine for back-up. Their batteries are larger and more powerful, enabling them to run for longer without recharging. When they do need to be charged, they can be plugged into an electrical outlet. The result is much higher fuel efficiency, and much lower emissions, than a conventional hybrid. However, the electric engine comes with its own suite of environmental issues - first, it plugs into the grid, and "the grid" for most of us, is still powered by coal-fired power plants, which means your car use is still tied to a large amount of pollution. Then there's the manufacture and disposal of batteries. Finally, manufacturers are still working out the kinks of battery technology, which is why we're not likely to see PHEVs on the road until about 2010. By that time, hopefully more of the grid will be powered by sun and wind.
Electric Vehicles
Fully electric vehicles emit nothing when you're driving them, and get a range of about 120 - 200 miles per charge. Their primary environmental impact come from the electricity used to power them - if you're plugged into a coal-fired grid, there are still emissions associated with your drive. However, as more and more states add larger amounts of renewable energy to the grid, the associated emissions will go down. Currently available models are typically fairly high in cost, but more affordable models are coming on line in the next one to two years from Mitsubishi, GM, Ford, Nissan, and California start-up Tesla, which currently sells its high-end roadster, a fully electric high performance sports car. The manufacture and disposal of batteries, however, especially large batteries produced at a scale to supply all the current car drivers, is still problematic for environmentalists.
Biodiesel-fueled Car
Standard diesel engines can be converted to run on biodiesel -- fuel derived from various plants and/or waste oil from restaurants. There are even DIY converter kits that run about $600 (check out greasecar.com). Biodiesel is not a fossil fuel and is more fuel-efficient than conventional diesel, but it still emits greenhouse gases when burned. According to the EPA, biodiesel emits less CO2 and particulate matter than conventional fuels, but more nitrous oxide, which also is a greenhouse gas.
Hydrogen-fueled Cars and Fuel Cells
For a long time, many believed hydrogen fuel cell cars were the wave of the future. Cars that run off hydrogen fuel cells can feasibly run just as well as currently available vehicles, and emit only water, which could be used for other things (and guess what? we're running short on water these days too). However, there are numerous engineering obstacles to overcome with hydrogen - namely infrastructure (building hundreds of stations stocked with high-pressure hydrogen canisters is hard to imagine), cost (as with most new fuels, cost for hydrogen fuel is currently prohibitive), and safety (there are still concerns about how hydrogen fuel cells would react in an accident). However, companies such as BMW are continuing to make strides in these areas, while electric car proponents argue that the emphasis should be on increasing the range of existent battery technology.
Power tools make house painting a cinch
By Paul Bianchina
A sure-fire way to make your home look better, prolong the life of your siding and add resale value all at once is to give the exterior a fresh coat of paint. But with a contractor paint job running in the thousands of dollars, you may be considering undertaking the task on your own this summer. If so, here are some tips and a couple of new tools from Wagner that will help you get the job done quickly with professional results.
Proper Preparation
Proper preparation of the siding is absolutely essential to a good-quality, long-lasting paint job. Loose and peeling paint must be removed first and the edges of the remaining paint feathered down to create a smooth surface for the next coat. Painting over old paint that is not well-adhered is pretty much a guarantee that the new paint job will fail. There is no way around this less-than-enjoyable task, so just resign yourself to it.
But while you can't avoid it, you can make it a little easier by using the proper tools. One new tool you might want to consider is Wagner's PaintEater ($74.99). The PaintEater is a hand-held electric tool that is somewhat similar to a disc sander, but instead of using sandpaper, it uses a 3M disc made from spun fiber. The fiber disc is aggressive in removing paint, but its unique design prevents the old paint from clogging up the sanding surface, so you get a lot more work done without constantly replacing the paper.
The PaintEater removes loose paint quickly, and will also feather down the edges of the remaining paint for a better, smoother surface. It can be used on wood, masonry and cement, but be aware that the rotary motion and aggressive paint-removal disc make it unsuitable for siding shingles or textured siding.
In addition to a tool such as the PaintEater, you'll also need a hand scraper and a sander to take care of the corners and the hard to reach areas. With any of these tools, be sure to wear eye protection to shield your eyes from flying paint chips -- which can be surprisingly sharp and dangerous -- as well as a dust mask or respirator to protect you against inhaling the dust.
When you're done with the scraping, the bare surfaces need to be primed to protect the wood and provide good adhesion for the top coat. Use a good-quality exterior primer that's compatible with your top coat, and apply one or two coats on all bare surfaces.
When preparing the siding on an older home, you need to be very aware of the possibility of lead paint. Even if the home has been repainted with latex, one or more of the underlying layers may contain lead. For more information about testing for and removing lead paint, contact the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) online at www.epa.gov/lead, or by phone at 1-800-424-LEAD (424-5323)
Airless Painting
Professional painters rely on airless paint-spraying equipment to apply paint quickly and cleanly with minimal overspray. You can rent a professional-grade airless sprayer, but the occasional user might want to consider investing in Wagner's Paint Crew Plus ($249.99).
Designed with homeowners in mind, the Paint Crew Plus has a 2800 PSI piston pump that's driven by a 1/2-horsepower electric motor, so you have plenty of power for spraying a variety of finishes. The sprayer features a pressure selector that allows you to vary the pressure between 1000 and 2800 PSI, which is very helpful in choosing the best pressure for the finish you're working with. Higher pressures are needed for spraying many of today's exterior latex paints, and you can dial the sprayer down to a lower pressure to give you better control and less overspray when working with thinner materials.
The Paint Crew has wheels and a telescoping handle for easy transport, as well as a 2 1/2-gallon paint hopper that's removable for easier cleaning. You also get a 25-foot high-pressure spray hose, a professional-grade metal spray gun and a reversible spray tip. A convenient hose wrap holds the hose when not in use, and there is a storage area for additional spray tips. Also included is a roller-arm assembly, which attaches to the hose in place of the spray gun, allowing for faster rolling of interior surfaces.
With this or any other type of airless sprayer, NEVER point it at anyone. The high-pressure pumps used with airless sprayers are capable of pushing paint through a person's skin, so be sure you read and understand all of the safety precautions.
A sure-fire way to make your home look better, prolong the life of your siding and add resale value all at once is to give the exterior a fresh coat of paint. But with a contractor paint job running in the thousands of dollars, you may be considering undertaking the task on your own this summer. If so, here are some tips and a couple of new tools from Wagner that will help you get the job done quickly with professional results.
Proper Preparation
Proper preparation of the siding is absolutely essential to a good-quality, long-lasting paint job. Loose and peeling paint must be removed first and the edges of the remaining paint feathered down to create a smooth surface for the next coat. Painting over old paint that is not well-adhered is pretty much a guarantee that the new paint job will fail. There is no way around this less-than-enjoyable task, so just resign yourself to it.
But while you can't avoid it, you can make it a little easier by using the proper tools. One new tool you might want to consider is Wagner's PaintEater ($74.99). The PaintEater is a hand-held electric tool that is somewhat similar to a disc sander, but instead of using sandpaper, it uses a 3M disc made from spun fiber. The fiber disc is aggressive in removing paint, but its unique design prevents the old paint from clogging up the sanding surface, so you get a lot more work done without constantly replacing the paper.
The PaintEater removes loose paint quickly, and will also feather down the edges of the remaining paint for a better, smoother surface. It can be used on wood, masonry and cement, but be aware that the rotary motion and aggressive paint-removal disc make it unsuitable for siding shingles or textured siding.
In addition to a tool such as the PaintEater, you'll also need a hand scraper and a sander to take care of the corners and the hard to reach areas. With any of these tools, be sure to wear eye protection to shield your eyes from flying paint chips -- which can be surprisingly sharp and dangerous -- as well as a dust mask or respirator to protect you against inhaling the dust.
When you're done with the scraping, the bare surfaces need to be primed to protect the wood and provide good adhesion for the top coat. Use a good-quality exterior primer that's compatible with your top coat, and apply one or two coats on all bare surfaces.
When preparing the siding on an older home, you need to be very aware of the possibility of lead paint. Even if the home has been repainted with latex, one or more of the underlying layers may contain lead. For more information about testing for and removing lead paint, contact the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) online at www.epa.gov/lead, or by phone at 1-800-424-LEAD (424-5323)
Airless Painting
Professional painters rely on airless paint-spraying equipment to apply paint quickly and cleanly with minimal overspray. You can rent a professional-grade airless sprayer, but the occasional user might want to consider investing in Wagner's Paint Crew Plus ($249.99).
Designed with homeowners in mind, the Paint Crew Plus has a 2800 PSI piston pump that's driven by a 1/2-horsepower electric motor, so you have plenty of power for spraying a variety of finishes. The sprayer features a pressure selector that allows you to vary the pressure between 1000 and 2800 PSI, which is very helpful in choosing the best pressure for the finish you're working with. Higher pressures are needed for spraying many of today's exterior latex paints, and you can dial the sprayer down to a lower pressure to give you better control and less overspray when working with thinner materials.
The Paint Crew has wheels and a telescoping handle for easy transport, as well as a 2 1/2-gallon paint hopper that's removable for easier cleaning. You also get a 25-foot high-pressure spray hose, a professional-grade metal spray gun and a reversible spray tip. A convenient hose wrap holds the hose when not in use, and there is a storage area for additional spray tips. Also included is a roller-arm assembly, which attaches to the hose in place of the spray gun, allowing for faster rolling of interior surfaces.
With this or any other type of airless sprayer, NEVER point it at anyone. The high-pressure pumps used with airless sprayers are capable of pushing paint through a person's skin, so be sure you read and understand all of the safety precautions.
Don't wait until selling to make repairs
By Dian Hymer
Home maintenance ranks low on many homeowners' priority lists. When the washing machine breaks, you might fix it to keep from having to go to the Laundromat. But, if there's no pressing need, home maintenance chores are often put off.
In the current soft real estate market, homeowners may be less inclined to pay money to make repairs around the house. However, the key to preserving the value of your home is keeping it in good condition.
Home maintenance is a necessary part of home ownership. The cost varies depending on the age of the home, its overall condition when you buy it and the climate. For example, in coastal California the alternation between fog and blistering sun takes its toll on exterior paint. Houses with a western exposure may need painting more often than those that face east.
Homeowners can have a hard time coming to terms with the fact that they can't recoup the cost of home maintenance when they sell. Home maintenance is a cost of ownership, as are property taxes, homeowners insurance and mortgage expenses.
Even though you can't tally your home maintenance expenses and expect a buyer to reimburse you, you do benefit when you sell by keeping your home well maintained. Buyers tend to pay more for homes that are in top condition, particularly in a buyer's market.
Also, if you don't take care of deferred maintenance, buyers are likely to adjust the price they'll pay for your home accordingly. The burden of making the repairs will be on them, so they will factor this into the cost of the house.
You can cut down on home maintenance by buying a condominium or townhouse in a planned-unit development where the homeowners association dues cover some of these costs. If you rent, your landlord is usually responsible for making repairs.
HOUSE HUNTING TIP: As a homeowner, you can keep your home maintenance costs down by staying on top of correcting minor problems before they become major. For instance, if a threshold is cracked and showing signs of wear, it's best to have it replaced before it causes water damage to the framing underneath. With the escalating cost of lumber, it would be a lot cheaper to replace the threshold now than to repair major water damage later.
Summer is an ideal time to take a serious look at your home in terms of getting it ready for the winter months. Track down leaks in windows, doors, roofs, foundations, drainage systems and basements. Have these and any related damage repaired.
Water is a homeowner's biggest headache. Too much in the wrong place can lead to dry rot, fungus and mold problems that can be very expensive to repair. Ideally, your home should be dry inside underneath the house during the rainy season.
Some homeowners can make repairs themselves. Others have little or no experience, and can't even spot a problem when they see one. If you fall into the latter category, plan to hire a home inspector, contractor or handyman to inspect your home annually for defects that need to be repaired. Many small repairs like installing weather-stripping, sealing French doors or windows, or caulking sinks and tubs can be done by a handyman.
Ask your inspector to prioritize the needed repair items. If you're short of funds, at least take care of the most important items.
Set a schedule for taking care of home maintenance items like having the furnace and fireplace checked, trimming trees and clearing drains.
THE CLOSING: Keep copies of invoices for work performed on your home. It will serve as a good reference for you and for the next owner of your home.
Home maintenance ranks low on many homeowners' priority lists. When the washing machine breaks, you might fix it to keep from having to go to the Laundromat. But, if there's no pressing need, home maintenance chores are often put off.
In the current soft real estate market, homeowners may be less inclined to pay money to make repairs around the house. However, the key to preserving the value of your home is keeping it in good condition.
Home maintenance is a necessary part of home ownership. The cost varies depending on the age of the home, its overall condition when you buy it and the climate. For example, in coastal California the alternation between fog and blistering sun takes its toll on exterior paint. Houses with a western exposure may need painting more often than those that face east.
Homeowners can have a hard time coming to terms with the fact that they can't recoup the cost of home maintenance when they sell. Home maintenance is a cost of ownership, as are property taxes, homeowners insurance and mortgage expenses.
Even though you can't tally your home maintenance expenses and expect a buyer to reimburse you, you do benefit when you sell by keeping your home well maintained. Buyers tend to pay more for homes that are in top condition, particularly in a buyer's market.
Also, if you don't take care of deferred maintenance, buyers are likely to adjust the price they'll pay for your home accordingly. The burden of making the repairs will be on them, so they will factor this into the cost of the house.
You can cut down on home maintenance by buying a condominium or townhouse in a planned-unit development where the homeowners association dues cover some of these costs. If you rent, your landlord is usually responsible for making repairs.
HOUSE HUNTING TIP: As a homeowner, you can keep your home maintenance costs down by staying on top of correcting minor problems before they become major. For instance, if a threshold is cracked and showing signs of wear, it's best to have it replaced before it causes water damage to the framing underneath. With the escalating cost of lumber, it would be a lot cheaper to replace the threshold now than to repair major water damage later.
Summer is an ideal time to take a serious look at your home in terms of getting it ready for the winter months. Track down leaks in windows, doors, roofs, foundations, drainage systems and basements. Have these and any related damage repaired.
Water is a homeowner's biggest headache. Too much in the wrong place can lead to dry rot, fungus and mold problems that can be very expensive to repair. Ideally, your home should be dry inside underneath the house during the rainy season.
Some homeowners can make repairs themselves. Others have little or no experience, and can't even spot a problem when they see one. If you fall into the latter category, plan to hire a home inspector, contractor or handyman to inspect your home annually for defects that need to be repaired. Many small repairs like installing weather-stripping, sealing French doors or windows, or caulking sinks and tubs can be done by a handyman.
Ask your inspector to prioritize the needed repair items. If you're short of funds, at least take care of the most important items.
Set a schedule for taking care of home maintenance items like having the furnace and fireplace checked, trimming trees and clearing drains.
THE CLOSING: Keep copies of invoices for work performed on your home. It will serve as a good reference for you and for the next owner of your home.
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Sellers use disclosure to their advantage
By Dian Hymer
Forty years ago, seller disclosures weren't part of the home-buying process. The rule of the game was buyer beware. Now most states have seller disclosure requirements, although they vary from one state to the next. Consult with a Realtor, the Department of Real Estate, or a real estate attorney in the area where you're buying or selling if you have questions about what a seller is required to disclose.
Seller disclosures came into being in order to protect home buyers. However, seller disclosures can also protect sellers. For example, a seller of an older home in the hills of Oakland, Calif., disclosed in writing that the basement flooded during heavy rains.
A few months after the sale closed, the listing agent received a call from the buyer. He was upset that there was water in the basement following an overnight rain storm. He insisted that no one had informed him of this situation before he purchased the property.
The listing agent reviewed the transaction file. The sellers had disclosed in writing that the basement flooded during heavy rains. The buyer had signed to confirm receipt of this information before he removed his inspection contingency from the contract.
What could have been a nasty lawsuit disappeared immediately.
During times when it's difficult to sell, sellers may be tempted to conceal negative information about their homes for fear that it will keep the home from selling. Sellers should resist this temptation. Concealing a material fact can have severe consequences.
Another seller stated in his seller disclosures that he had never had any water problems at the house. He had also remodeled the basement and presented it as a usable family room. Not long after the buyers moved in, bad weather set in. So much water ran into the basement that the cozy family room was uninhabitable. The buyers sued the seller and recovered a hefty sum.
HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Think of disclosure as damage control. Although this may seem counterintuitive, you want any negative information affecting the property to be revealed before, not after, the home sale. If buyers know that the roof is at the end of its life, they can make a determination before buying about how much they can pay for the house, or if they can even afford to buy it without help from the sellers. Problems arise when sellers withhold this sort of information.
A less-than-candid seller was sued successfully by the buyer when the roof leaked soon after closing. The seller's disclosure statement mentioned no problems with the roof. The new owner became friendly with his next-door neighbor who told him that the seller had talked to several roofers and was planning to re-roof the house before the rainy season. What you choose to conceal could be disclosed for you by a neighbor.
The goal in selling your home is to sell for the best price and on the best terms possible. You defeat the purpose if you end up having to pay back part or the entire sale proceeds to settle a lawsuit.
It's not always clear if a fact is material. For example, the sellers of a home in the trendy Rockridge neighborhood in Oakland knew that a cleaning person who worked for the past owner had been raped in the house. The seller, who was an attorney, decided to disclose this fact. This caused a nervous single woman to decide against buying the house. But, it made no difference to the ultimate buyer.
THE CLOSING: And, the disclosure had no negative impact on the selling price.
Backyard deck a perfect DIY project
By Paul Bianchina
Building a deck remains one of those perennial favorite projects. A well-built deck definitely adds to the enjoyment of your home, while also adding resale value. With a few carpentry skills and tools, the construction of a basic -- or even not so basic -- deck is something that's well within the reach of most do-it-yourselfers. And there's something about that combination of fresh air and fresh sawdust that's irresistible!
Every deck, no matter the size, style or complexity, consists of two basic components -- the underframing (including the foundation) and the decking. If the deck sits up off the ground very much, you can add two additional components as well -- a railing and a set of stairs.
As with any home improvement project, construction begins on paper. Whether you do the design yourself or enlist the aid of a designer, lumberyard or home center, the design needs to incorporate all of the structural elements such as the size and layout of the support piers and framing lumber. If your deck will have stairs and a railing, that design should be included as well.
FOUNDATION AND UNDERFRAMING This is the structure that supports and braces the load of the deck and its occupants, and while it's rarely seen, it's actually the most important part of the entire structure. Due to its location, where it's in close proximity to the ground and also subject to water runoff from the deck above, pressure-treated lumber is typically the best choice for this part of the project.
Typically, construction of the deck begins with the layout, digging, and pouring of the concrete piers or footings that will support the deck. Smaller decks can often utilize precast pier blocks, while larger decks may require piers that are sunk into the ground to a depth below the frost line. Galvanized steel brackets imbedded in the concrete provide a convenient and stable attachment point for the transition from the concrete to the faming lumber.
If the deck is attached to the house, the next step is installation of the ledger. The ledger provides an attachment to the house, and serves as the starting point for the deck framing. A ledger is typically made of the same size and type of material as the deck framing, and it's important that it be securely bolted to the house's structural framing.
It's also important that the ledger be level and at the correct height, depending on where the finished deck will be in relation to the house. For example, if you will be stepping out a door and directly onto the deck, the ledger should be located at a distance below the door that is equal to the thickness of the decking material you'll be using.
Using the ledger as a reference point, the rest of the framing takes off from there. Using string lines, a laser level or other means to establish their location in relation to the ledger, the support girders are installed next. The girders are supported by posts attached to the piers, and are installed perpendicular to the direction of the joists.
The final underframing step is the installation of the joists. These are installed perpendicular to the direction that the decking boards will run, and rest on top of the girders. They are also attached to the ledger at one end. Since the decking is typically installed parallel to the house, that means that the joists would be perpendicular to the house, intersecting the ledger at a 90-degree angle. Galvanized steel joist hangers are the most common method for attachment and support of the ends of the joists where they meet the ledger. Depending on the size of the deck, blocking and/or bracing may be required as well.
If your deck is freestanding and is not attached to the house, the overall construction process is pretty much the same. However, since a freestanding deck lacks the rigidity of the house to anchor one side, it often requires some additional bracing to stabilize the framing.
DECKING With the basic framing complete, you can now move on to the installation of the deck boards, which are laid perpendicular to the joists. The most common attachment method is to screw down through the board into the joist below -- don't use nails, which have more of a tendency to work loose as the framing dries out. If you would prefer not to see the screw heads, there are several different methods of concealed fastener installation -- check with your designer or a local lumberyard for options that will work best for your particular deck design.
For the best appearance, use the longest boards possible so that you can eliminate some of the end-to-end joints. For example, on a 16-foot deck it's preferable to use 16-foot boards instead of two 8-foot boards. If the deck is large enough that joints are required, stagger them between successive rows by a minimum of two joists. For example, a 24-foot deck might start with a row of two 12-foot boards, followed by a row made up of three 8-foot boards. This will look better and be a little more stable than a row with one 10-foot and one 14-foot board.
What makes food “organic”?
By Charly Papp
Organic food is hot and with good reason—current research shows that it does indeed live up to the hype. Recent studies at UC Davis and the Danish Institute for Agricultural Research have detected higher levels of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals in organically farmed foods than in their conventionally produced counterparts. While this news makes their often-higher price tag easier to swallow, navigating the organic options at Whole Foods can be anything but simple.
Here, a run-down of the terms so you’re ready to face the aisles:
Organic – farmed without the use of chemical pesticides, fertilizers, sewage sludge, and—in the case of livestock—antibiotics and growth hormones. While the jury’s still out on whether these things are actually harmful to your health, it sure makes non-organic foods a lot less appetizing. When the term is used on packaged food labels, it ensures that at least 95 percent of the ingredients are USDA-approved organic. Those labeled made with organic ingredients must contain at least 70 percent organic components. For more information on USDA’s certification system, visit their website: http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/ams.fetchTemplateData.do?template=TemplateA&navID=NationalOrganicProgram&leftNav=NationalOrganicProgram&page=NOPNationalOrganicProgramHome&acct=AMSPW.
Conventional – foods not otherwise distinguished as organic. These foods may or may not be farmed with the use of chemicals, antibiotics, and hormones.
Natural – a distinction used for foods that have been minimally processed and contain no preservatives. However, the definition is not a legal one, so watch out for imposters. And remember—just because a food is natural doesn’t necessarily mean it’s healthy. Super-premium ice cream that is made with all-natural ingredients still packs a whopping 240 percent of your daily saturated fat intake per pint!
Sustainable Agriculture – farming that favors more natural practices to harvest a crop, which in turn creates a system wherein food can be produced indefinitely. Transitional – food produced by a farmer that is transitioning from conventional to organic—a process that takes at least three chemical-free years to certify.
Fair Trade – farmed by workers who receive a living wage and work under safe conditions. To learn more about fair trade, visit the International Federation for Alternative Trade’s website: www.ifat.org.
Recombinant Bovine Growth Hormone (rbST or rBGH) – a genetically engineered hormone given to cows to boost milk production. Many claim that consumption of this hormone—which is banned in Canada and Europe—contributes to elevated cancer risk, though clinical studies have yielded somewhat conflicting results.
Genetically-Modified Foods (GMOs) – crops that have been scientifically manipulated to enhance some trait, be it longevity or nutrition. Critics attest that their use is altering our environment in a host of unhealthful ways and add that their effect on humans is not yet known. For a fair look at the issue, see http://www.csa.com/discoveryguides/gmfood/overview.php
You can safely assume that a food labeled “organic” is certified so—the fine for false claims can reach upwards of $10,000—but beware of the greenwash that is lending its ghoulish hue to many a not-so-virtuous product. Due to the monumental success of organic foods, many manufactures are jumping onto the green bandwagon if for nothing else than packaging, favoring designs that present a more wholesome image to the consumer. This means you’ll see more earth-toned exteriors, rustic fonts, fruits and vegetables figuring prominently… don’t be fooled.
Look for key words like organic or no GMOs and check the ingredients and nutrition facts for the stats.
Though the range of organic products is ever evolving and expanding, with a little bit of knowledge, you and your family can grow with the trend—without the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides.
Pest repairs are turnoff for buyers
By Dian Hymer
In a perfect world, houses wouldn't deteriorate over time. In reality, the wear begins as soon as a house is built. Older houses tend to have more maintenance issues. But even new homes can develop problems within a few years if they were poorly constructed.
Most homes are inspected for damage caused by wood pests -- such as dry rot, termites, fungus, decay and wood-boring beetles -- before they are sold. Who pays to correct the damage -- buyer or seller -- is often subject to negotiation.
In a hot seller's market with a high percentage of multiple offers, buyers frequently buy "as is" regarding known defects to better their chances. This was common several years ago when home prices were rising rapidly. At that time, owning a home was more important than the condition of the property.
One problem with buying "as is" with respect to pest work is that it's easy to overlook the fact that the work needs to be done. Many buyers who bought "as is" in recent years have not taken care of the pest repairs.
These buyers who are trying to sell in today's market may find they have less equity than they thought they had. Not only have home prices declined in many areas recently, but today's home buyers are unlikely to buy "as is" regarding a large pest bill that was passed on from the previous owner.
HOUSE HUNTING TIP: In soft markets, buyers are more prone to factor in the cost of curing deferred maintenance into their price. Ideally, sellers should have pest work done before they put their homes on the market. This removes the need for negotiation over pest repairs. Plus, the houses in the best condition that are priced right for the market are the ones that sell.
It's not always possible for sellers to have pest work done before marketing their homes, either due to shortage of time or funds. In this case, make sure that you have presale inspection reports done before you market the property and price it to take into account the cost of the repair work.
Also, you should make every effort to have the house looking as good as possible. In a soft market, sellers have a lot of competition from other sellers. Even if you can't replace a shower or a rotted mudsill before you market the property, at least have it showing at its best. This will get buyers interested in the property, particularly if the list price reflects the work that needs to be done.
There is nothing wrong with buying a property in its "as is" condition as long as you have complete knowledge of the work that needs to be done. But, it is essential that you factor in the cost of the necessary work and ongoing maintenance. Many buyers overlook this and later discover that they can't afford to continue to own their home.
It's rare that every item on a pest report needs to be done immediately. But, at some point the deferred maintenance needs to be corrected.
Ask your inspector to prioritize the items on the report in terms of urgency level. A deck that's rotted to the point that it's unsafe should be replaced as soon as possible. However, if the bathroom floor needs replacing, but poses no danger, you might want to hold off having this work done until you remodel the entire bathroom, if that is in your game plan.
THE CLOSING: In fact, in this case, replacing the floor would be a waste of money.
Monday, September 8, 2008
Recycling codes: What they mean
By Michelle D. Alderson
According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) (http://www.epa.gov), in 2006, the U.S. produced more than 251 million tons of garbage -- approximately 4.6 pounds of waste per person per day. Of that, recycling diverted 82 million tons of material away from disposal. In short, Americans are putting plastics into their recycling bins. Many of us recycle without knowing if something is actually recyclable.
Have you ever wondered what those numbers mean on plastic bottles? Below we explain what the seven different codes found on plastics mean and what they are recycled into. Check to see which plastics are accepted in your city; every city has different curbside recycling programs.
1. Polyethylene Terephtalate (PET, PETE): PET is a clear plastic found in soft drinks, water, juice, sports drinks, and condiments bottles; food jars for such products as peanut butter and jelly; and in frozen food packaging. PET is recycled into fiber for carpets, clothing, and tote bags. It can also be re-used for food and beverage bottles. PET is the most common-used plastic due to its inexpensive and easy-to-recycle features, and is widely accepted by most curbside recycling programs.
2. High Density Polyethylene (HDPE): HDPE is resistant to most solvents and is used for food products with a shorter shelf life such as bottled milk. Because it's more chemical-resistant than PET, it's also used for household cleaners including laundry detergent, shampoo, and plastic grocery bags. HDPE is recycled into bottling for non-food items, such as motor oil and antifreeze, plastic lumber, flowerpots, and recycling bins. It's accepted by most curbside recycling programs.
3. Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC, Vinyl): You won't find this recycling symbol on household items. PVC is chemical-resistant so it's used to make packaging products, shrink-wrap, window frames, fencing, and decking. PVC is recycled into pipes, fencing, decking, floor tiles, traffic cones, garden hoses, and packaging products. It's not commonly accepted by curbside recycling programs.
4. Low Density Polyethylene (LDPE): A tougher and more flexible plastic, LDPE is used for dry cleaning bags, newspapers, breads, frozen food, shrink-wrap, container lids for hot and cold beverages, and toys. It's most common use is for plastic shopping bags. LDPE is recycled into envelopes, garbage can liners, trashcans, paneling, and floor tile. LPDE is not commonly accepted by curbside recycling programs, but plastic bags are now readily accepted at supermarkets.
5. Polypropylene (PP): PP is also strong and chemical-resistant, which is good for hot-fill liquids. It's used for takeout food, yogurts, margarine, and bottle caps. PP is recycled into automobile parts, such as turn signal lights; brooms; bicycle racks; and trays. Some recycling curbside recycling programs accept PP.
6. Polystyrene (PS): PS is more versatile than the other plastics and is used in many food items such as cutlery, plates, cups, and containers. It's also used for those pesky packing peanuts, as well as foam packaging for electronics and furniture. PS is recycled into mouldings, thermometers, and license plate frames. Some recycling curbside recycling programs accept PS.
7. Other: An item with this marking means that it is made with a different resin other than the six listed above. These items can include oven-baking bags, some juice and ketchup bottles, and packaging materials. It's recycled into bottles and plastic lumber and is not commonly accepted by curbside recycling programs.
For more info: http://www.americanchemistrycouncil.com
Home sellers who understand market prosper
By Dian Hymer
Buyers aren't the only ones holding back in today's housing market. Many sellers are postponing putting their homes on the market because they are convinced that now is not a good time to sell. They would prefer to wait for a better market.Waiting could be risky if you need to make a move within the next year or so. Most areas of the country are mired in a slow market where sellers are finding it difficult to sell, at least at a price they'd be willing to accept. There's no guarantee that if you wait to sell that the market will be any better than it is now, at least in the short term.However, the market isn't slow everywhere.
Some areas, like San Francisco, Palo Alto (Calif.) and parts of the East San Francisco Bay Area are still suffering from a lack of inventory. Or, lack of the right kind of inventory. Recently, there were six offers on a hot new listing in Piedmont, Calif., a city adjacent to Oakland. Multiple offers are commonplace in Palo Alto and San Francisco. What these areas have in common are a coveted location and very low inventory of homes of sale.Negative press about the real estate market is keeping sellers who could do quite well selling now from doing so. If you'd like to sell, but have been scared off by bad news, don't make a decision until you find out more about what kind of homes are selling in your local market.
HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Supply and demand set the pace of any real estate market. When there are more homes for sale than there are buyers willing to buy, it takes longer to sell and prices are often soft. When there is a shortage of homes for sale and plenty of buyers wanting to buy, good homes sell quickly and there is often an upward pressure on prices. Even though the overall market might be soft, there can be pockets that are hot. The hot spots needn't necessarily be a specific location. They can be a certain type of house within a location.
For example, the Piedmont listing mentioned above took 13 days to sell. It would have sold more quickly except that the sellers decided to expose the property to the market before entertaining offers. The home was a good size and had broad-based appeal. It had eight rooms, a two-car attached garage, a level-out backyard, and it had been completely remodeled with high-end finishes. It was priced competitively.
Contrast this with another Piedmont listing that did not sell in the three months it was on the market. It was a smaller six-room house with no garage and without a level-out backyard. It had limited appeal in comparison to the listing that sold quickly. And, it was significantly overpriced for the market.The current market is extremely price-sensitive. An Oakland, Calif., listing was on the market earlier in the year priced approximately $100,000 above what the market would bear. The listing was removed from the market and listed several months later at a realistic price. It sold then with three offers for over the asking price.
Selling in this market is not easy. But, sellers who understand the market can do well selling today. They must be realistic about what they need to do to prepare their home for sale. Property condition is more important to buyers today than it was several years ago. Sellers also must be committed to the process. There is no margin for error when it comes to pricing.
THE CLOSING: If you can't bring yourself to price to sell, you're not a committed home seller.
Is buying a home to live in a good investment?
By Dian Hymer
Anecdotal evidence suggests that in some markets investors are buying foreclosure properties at bargain prices. These properties are located in areas that appear to have good growth potential, and they generate enough rental income to at least offset the holding and maintenance costs. The deal needs to make sense financially regardless of whether there is a big run up in appreciation.
The plan is to hold the property for the long term.There was a time not long ago when investors bought condos and houses even if they didn't produce enough cash flow to cover the carrying costs. Prices were rising so quickly, they could afford a little negative cash flow.
The holding period was short and the appreciation payoff was big. According to Standard & Poor's/Case-Shiller 20-city home-price index, prices increased almost 75 percent between February 2000 and February 2008. In most housing markets, it's not possible to count on appreciation now. The market could be bottoming out in some places, according to some economists. Or prices could move lower before leveling off. It could be years before significant appreciation is again part of the housing picture.
With this in mind, is buying a home to live in still a good investment?Just as the lenders are moving back to basics in terms of qualifying borrowers for mortgages, home buyers should examine the fundamentals of home ownership to determine if they are good candidates.
HOUSE HUNTING TIP: The equity in your personal residence shouldn't be used to pay for vacations, education, new cars and credit-card debt. Many homeowners who participated in serial refinancing when rates were low and money was easy found they had no equity left when the credit crunch hit in August 2007. A good portion of these repeat refinancers now owe more than the current value of their home.Along the same lines, it's risky to look at your home as a retirement account.
It's not a good idea to rob your pension plans in order to purchase a home. This money should be kept for retirement.
Some financial advisors suggest that you don't consider the equity in your home as part of your financial portfolio. After all, you will always need to live somewhere. Most people will always need to budget part of their net worth for housing. Buying a residence hoping for appreciation to increase your net worth is dicey. You may earn appreciation. Nationally, home prices have tended to rise over the long term. But, this doesn't mean that your home will appreciate during the time period you own it. However, there are plenty of good reasons to buy your own home, if you can afford it.
The government subsidizes the cost of home ownership by permitting taxpayers who itemize deductions to write off some or all of the mortgage interest and property taxes they pay. Restrictions do apply. So, check with your tax advisor before making a purchase.
Owning your own home gives you a sense of security. You can choose the community in which you live. You're not at the mercy of a landlord who might issue an eviction notice. If you buy with a fixed-rate mortgage, you know how much you'll be paying over time. Rents, in most places, are subject to increases. It doesn't make sense to spend money fixing up someone else's house so that it feels like yours. And, most landlords will have a say in what you can and can't do -- even down to paint colors.
THE CLOSING: But, if you own it, you can redecorate to your taste.
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